Even as a seasoned repairer you sometimes think hmm, I don’t think I’m going to be able to help this time. I might end up making it worse. This was nearly the case when a lady brought me this Mickey Mouse desktop organiser thingy, in to the workshop for repair.
I’ve never really been a fan of Mickey Mouse. However, after a few minutes of chat with the owner and me staring at Mickey’s face, he started to work his magic somehow. I don’t know if it was the friendly face, disproportionately large ears, or something about that unique colour combination, but at that moment, I decided that I had to help.
This is how it starts for many others, I’m sure.
Make and model: Mickey Mouse desk organiser
Fault reported: snapped-off hand
Cost of replacement: £?
Manufacturer support: 0/10
Cost of parts: £1.00
My repair time: 1 hour
Tools needed: Small file, drill
Sundry items: Paint, car body filler, glue, bit of a rivet
Cleaning materials: Polish
Repair difficulty: 4/10
Cups of tea: 1
Biscuits: 1 Bourbon
This beloved Mickey Mouse pen holder belongs to a local Worthing teacher and had previously adorned her desk for many years until Mickey had an accident, leaving his left arm broken. Ouch.
Despite home attempts involving sticky tape and super glue, his arm simply wouldn’t heal, so the owner did the responsible thing, taking him to hospital. The hospital in this case was my shed.
Resin-formed sculptures like this are tricky to mend as unless you know the resin’s formula, you don’t really know how a general glue will react. And react they can. Get the glue type wrong and you can turn your once loved plastic gem in to a smoking mess. Believe me, I’ve done it.
Fortunately, the super glue used previously hadn’t done much harm, but it had eroded some arm away.
So, I had a hand and an arm stump. Not much to go on. Whilst mulling Mickey’s issue over a brew, it became clear that the only way to go was to use a little bit of ‘real-world’ tech. Cutting down a spare aluminium rivet to use as a ‘bone’ pin, I was able to drill in to both hand stump and arm and use the pin to hold both parts together. I set the pin in place using some fairly inert Gorilla Glue (good stuff). However, this isn’t the end of the repair.
There was a gap around the join as material was missing. I decided to form a new wrist at Mickey’s stump using some car body filler, left over from my years of Mini ownership. A little dab of filler around the joint, followed by a few hours wait, followed by a small rub down and the arm was ready for paint. The mouse’s body is finished in a satin black so I decided to recoat the arm using some Fortress black anti-reflective brush-on paint, that I had in the shed, as you do.
After 24 hours of close observation, waiting for the paint to dry, Mickey was ready to leave hospital.
When I agreed to ‘have a look’ at a customer’s beloved broken blender, I had no idea that the market for blenders was so, well, juicy. One can spend anything from £50-£1800 – a huge price range. You have to ask yourself a question; is the juice made by a blender costing 36 times more than a cheaper one, any better? Hmm, the virtues of blender technology, robustness and efficiency could be debated in a future, exhilarating article, maybe. But for now, our attention is on this one, the repair of an Optimum 8200 Blender.
The reason I mention the huge price range is that prices for spare parts also vary wildly too.
Make and model: Optimum 8200 Blender
Fault reported: Leaking, noisy, crunchy, horrible
Cost of replacement: £300.00
Manufacturer support: 5/10
Cost of parts: £18.95
My repair time: 1.5 hours
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, test meter, heat shrink, soldering iron etc
Sundry items: paint, contact cleaner
Cleaning materials: Bleach, bicarbonate of soda, washing up liquid, car polish
Repair difficulty: 3/10
Cups of tea: 2
Biscuits: 2 X custard creams
I received this blender with a broken drive coupler/ socket (the bit that transfers the power to the blades in the jug) and a rough, leaking blender jug. This high-mileage kitchen appliance had been used until it would work no more.
Upon taking the blender into the workshop, I suggested to the owner that ‘it must have been sounding rough’ for a while… There then might have been a small admission of guilt.
Now, I realise that I’m unusual. I regularly service my vacuum cleaners, sandwich toaster and kettle and I know that this isn’t normal, so my views on machine maintenance are a little outside the bell curve.
The owner had done her own research on repairing her blender. She’d located a spares provider and had identified the parts required, to get the blender back making smoothies, which is more than many folk do. The trouble was that the total amount for all the new parts required, was more than the price of a reconditioned unit. This is often the case as some reconditioning agents have access to cheaper parts, not available to regular punters, through economies of scale. To make this repair financially viable, I was going to have to work smart.
As mentioned earlier, blenders vary widely in price and there are established names out there that command a high price. However, look beyond the logo and things are a little greyer. Badge engineering, colour and subtle style changes can literally add hundreds of pounds to the asking price for the same basic machine. This is nothing new. Manufacturers have been sharing designs and production since the dawn of time and when it comes to buying spares for an expensive machine, there can often be a cheaper route for good quality alternative spares that are compatible, intended for the cheaper variation. The skill is knowing where to look.
A picture paints a thousand words as they say and the slide show above shows the stages that I went through with this repair.
Using the original parts listed for an Optimum 8200 blender, the best deal the customer and I could find was:
Replacement drive socket, £39.95
Replacement blade and bearing, £69.00
Tool for blade removal, £11.99
Total, £120.94 (more if you want speedier delivery). Source: froothie.co.uk
Shopping around for alternatives…
Replacement blade and bearing, £18.95 for a Vitamix blender (Amazon.co.uk)
Repair to existing drive socket (I drilled and tapped a new grub screw), £ my time
I used a tool I had already to remove the old blade (a plumbing bracket) so no need to buy one
Total, £18.95, plus my time
I chose a Vitamix blade as I noticed that some Optimum and Vitamix blenders shared the same jug design. I actually saw the blade assembly for £7.99 on eBay, but decided that the warranty offer on Amazon.co.uk, was a better deal.
Now, I know I haven’t been that scientific here, but one suspects that there is little or no difference in blender blade robustness and all the ones I’ve ever seen to date contain the same bearings you might find in a scooter or skateboard. I suspect that the blade assemblies are all made in the same factory, somewhere.
My guess here is that the aftermarket parts supplier must charge a comparitively high price for some items to:
Cover staff and site overheads
Provide a sense of reassuring expense compared to the original purchase price
Potentially recover a high charge from the manufacturer
The trouble with this strategy is that many domestic appliances are worth little once unwrapped compared to the original ticket price. The comparative high prices for aftermarket parts would likely in many cases, put a customer off doing the repair at all. The customer then weighs up the cost of:
Finding someone to do the repair work
Doing the repair work themselves
The price of parts
The price of labour
Often, when added up, it’s cheaper to replace, rather than repair which in my opinion, not the way to go.
As a repairer, the statement I’m always grappling with is:
Value Repair ≤ Replacement Product Purchase or simply: VR ≤ RPP
So, when someone brings me an item to repair, I’m always looking for:
An overall repair that costs-in for the customer, encouraging the customer to keep the existing machine for longer, saving it from the dump
A repair that’s likely to be reliable in relation to the condition of the machine
An upgrade to the original design (where possible) taking advantage of the innovations or modifications to the original design that enhance longevity or performance
It’s a careful balancing act and one that doesn’t always work first time, but that’s the challenge!
I’ve gone a little off subject but it all relates.
Back to the blender, I saved the customer money on the purchase of a new appliance, saved money on a potential repair elsewhere and saved the broken blender from the chop. The customer was happy. As with all items I receive for repair, I also cleaned and polished the blender to make it shine like new.
Footnote: The repair was over, or so I thought. A week or so later, the customer contacted me again to tell me that a new fault had started. Speed control was now a little erratic and was making the blender hard to use. I said no problem and agreed to have a look. Likely to have happened during my repair work, a small lead on the printed circuit board had become loose. A quick tighten up and normal operation resumed. Phew!
A Star Trek Next Generation themed money box gets a light restoration
Some things are just cool. I mean look, if this money box doesn’t encourage prudent saving behaviour, then quite frankly, nothing will.
Spoiler alert: Put money in, some of the Star Trek crew (Next Generation) light up, followed by speech and cool sound effects. What’s not to like. Pressing the Star Trek (Starfleet) button, simulates the effects too. What fun.
This money box had once been cherished by its owner, but had been left in the attic for a number of years, with the original batteries still fitted. As anyone who’s done this before will know, old batteries leak in time. If you’re lucky and catch the ensuing corrosion in time, you might get away with just battery removal and a light clean up. If you leave it long enough, like the owner of this toy had, you’ll end up with a lot of rusty mess and no chance of life (Jim, but not as we know it). Remember, take batteries out before putting your toys away, long term.
Make and model: Star Trek money box (make unknown)
Fault reported: Not working/ battery compartment heavily corroded
Cost of replacement: £ Irreplaceable
Manufacturer support: 0/10
Cost of parts: £4.00
Hours spent on repair: 1.5 hours
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, test meter, heat shrink, soldering iron etc
Biscuits: none (1 jammy donut, slightly warmed, as they should be)
When I get an item like this, I tend to spend a bit of time researching it online, to see who knows anything about it. It turns out, that this money box isn’t that well represented and after a few Google searches, I simply gave up and got on with the repair.
Parts for something like this are not available from the manufacturer, even if they are still around. Presented with a situation like this, the only thing that can be done is to see if other parts can be bought off the shelf from component suppliers and be made to fit. One simply has to be creative.
Good old eBay came up with the goods. AA and C type battery terminals were available in single and double terminal variants and I ordered a couple of packs from a Chinese supplier, who delivered the bits I needed, within a week. These things are reasonably cheap, so I ordered a pack, just in case I ruined a few, practicing first.
Just a few small screws hold the casing together and after de-soldering the wires going from the battery compartments to the main circuit, I was ready to start. With battery corrosion as severe as this, all you can do is soak the parts in something like WD40 and attack the rusted parts with a small screwdriver and knife, taking time to avoid damaging the (aged) plastic casing..
After an hour, I’d removed 99% of the mess and fitted the new terminals. The AA terminals went in OK, but the C type ones needed adapting with some metal I had lying about in the workshop. A quick re-attachment of the wiring, a quick clean with brake cleaner to de-grease and then touch up with some satin black paint and one would never know that batteries had ever wreaked such havoc.
Sometimes, I want to hang on to some of the things I repair. This was one such item, but alas, I had to give it back.
Having repaired more than 100 Kenwood Chefs, I compare newish and older machines. Which is best?
Believe it or not, people do ask me which is best: New or old machines?
There is of course, no right or wrong answer and the answer will vary, depending on the product and application.
But since the question comes up from time-to-time, I thought I’d give my opinion on the matter and have a bit of fun with the subject, a kind of shoot-out if you will.
My illustration focuses on an old favourite of mine; the Kenwood Chef. My chosen opponents are a model from the early 1980s, the ubiquitous A901 Chef, made in England, and the much later 2000s KMC010 Chef, made in China.
The Chef is a good example for the shoot-out as the machine’s purpose hasn’t changed since it’s introduction to kitchens in the 1950s. Many Chef accessories produced over the years are interchangeable, owning to the foresight of good design.
Some people think that new machines are best and more capable while other people think older machines are best as they were built to last. Since I’ve dismantled, used and admired 100s of these machines, here’s my take.
Round 1 – Performance
Older Chefs are less powerful than newer machines. For example, the A901 has a 450W motor, whereas the later KMC010 has a much more powerful 1400W motor. This means than the newer machine will be more capable to mix more stodgy mixtures for longer. Counter-intuitively, the more powerful machine may be more efficient for some loads, compared to the lower power one, although I’ve never measured this.
A901 – 0 KMC010 – 1
Round 2 – Noise (from the machine)
Kenwood has tended to favour evolution rather than revolution with their product progression. Many models available over the years appeared not to change much on the surface, but under the skin, small tweaks and improvements were taking place. So, in general, the newer the machine, the quieter they tend to be. There are some model variant exceptions to this, but the KMC010 is much quieter than my own good condition A901.
A901 – 0 KMC010 – 2
Oh dear, new things might be better after all..?
Round 3 – Durability
Now this is where things get interesting. Many of the machines I receive in my workshop for repair are getting on a bit. Some of them are over 40 years old. The machines have served their families well with faithful service.
Faulty older machines can often be turned around within a few hours in the workshop, to be back with the customer, to make more cakes. The A901 Chef is a tough old beast. The materials and finish rarely give any problems and major components rarely fail it seems.
KMC010 Chefs (and all newer models) that I see in the workshop are obviously much younger than the A901s. While very capable and powerful, sadly, they seem to have failed, often only with occasional light use.
Seemingly, it’s true what they say, the older machines were built to last and I base that purely on customer enquiries and items I see to repair every week. The newer machines often have features and buttons that don’t serve any real advantage, but have associated circuits which can and do go wrong, rendering the whole machine useless, if they fail.
A901 – 1 KMC010 – 2
Round 4 – Repairability
Now obviously, I am ‘repairability-biased’, this is a blog about repair after all. However, the facts speak for themselves. Older Chefs can be repaired with basic tools, reasonably priced components and a little know-how.
Newer Chefs, like the KMC010 are more complicated and have less user-serviceable parts. This makes otherwise serviceable machines far more likely to end up in the scrapyard with seemingly minor faults, that were too hard to diagnose and repair. The A901 wins hands down in the repairability stakes.
A901 – 2 KMC010 – 2
The feeling is tense and there’s an air of excitement as I get to call the decider on this slightly odd dual.
Round 5 – Value for money (the decider)
A new KMC010 Titanium costs over £600 today and it should be said that all Chefs are great machines and a worthy addition to any kitchen. However, a decent second-hand Chef from the 1960s to the early 1990s is a worthy contender for a tenth of the cost.
Have a look on eBay and you’ll see A701s, A701a, A901, A901E, KM200 model Chefs, starting at £40, often with many accessories. They’re just as useful and capable to serve most home needs. Indeed, I have a customer who uses her standard A901 in an industrial kitchen, every day, with no problems.
A901 – 3 KMC010 -2
The non-scientific conclusion…
Buy an older machine and take satisfaction that it will last generations, can be easily repaired and work with most accessories available now. Buying an older machine is probably less environmentally damaging than the manufacture of a new machine.
Buy a new machine and take satisfaction with additional performance and a manufacturers’ guarantee for the first year…
A cheap fix gets this essential tea making machine back in business…
I admit it. I do get some satisfaction when I divert an appliance, on a journey to the bin, to my workshop for repair. I have been known to collect the odd item from skips or just dumped on the pavement while supposed to be doing something more productive. I think I just feel sorry for things. Weird, but true.
Make and model: Swan Hot Water Tea 20L Urn
Fault reported: Not staying hot
Cost of replacement: £80ish
Manufacturer support: 3/10
Cost of parts: £1.70
Hours spent on repair: 45 minutes
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, test meter etc
Sundry items: Cleaning materials, heat transfer solution
Repair difficulty: 2/10
Cups of tea: X1
Biscuits: Malted Milk X1
This Swan hot water tea urn was one of those items. Spotted during an office reorganisation in the ‘scrap pile’, it had been put there as it wasn’t working properly and a new one had now been ordered.
Being fairly light-fingered, I spirited the urn away to the workshop for some tinker time. Not strictly staff policy, but you know, seek forgiveness after etc.
An urn is really just a big kettle. This one has an all metal 20 litre tank with bar-style tap to brew up, when needed. There are no real controls as such; just an on/off switch with neon light and two tell-tail lights to indicate boil and keep warm. Keep warm is usually on all the time when switched on.
The fault seemed to be that the urn reached boiling temperature when switched on, but then switched off totally, allowing the water to cool again excessively. Timing the switching intervals of the thermostat, 20 minutes or so, and a 15-200 hysteresis confirmed a fault. There was also no ‘keep warm’ green light on, when in use. To push the thermostat further, I poured cold water into the urn to see if that sped up switching between hot and cold, it didn’t.
Opening up the urn’s base involved just three screws, allowing access to all components. Such a nice change to not have layers of covers and things to move out of the way first!
Checking the wiring out for logic revealed that someone had been here before! The wiring was incorrect and the ‘keep hot’ element was not wired up correctly and effectively not in circuit with the power source. A small wiring change corrected this and meant that the ‘keep warm’ element was now working again.
The thermal reset fuse/ button seemed to be working OK- proved with a test meter and the thermostat did seem to switch on and off, albeit with excessive hysteresis. Time to fit another one! Luckily, these thermostats are very common and I managed to get one from eBay, rated at 1000 (a couple of degrees over the one fitted) for less than £2. Fitting a new thermostat only involved a couple of screws, a light smear of heat transfer solution and reconnecting back into the wiring harness.
With all wiring back in place and the cover refitted, it was time to test and brew up. This time, the urn boiled, switched off and then stayed warm on the secondary ‘keep warm’ circuit. To prove that the new thermostat was an improvement, I then topped up the urn with cold water and within 5 seconds, the thermostat clicked in and the boiling process started again.
Time for a brew.
(PS, the urn has now returned to its normal place of work)
Less is usually more. Simpler devices can mean repair is more likely in the event of failure.
I keep a model of a Citroen 2CV car on my desk at work. It’s about 30-odd years old and it’s a bit battered due to an incident involving a shelf, my old cat and an 8ft drop, but that’s another story.
The 2CV is there to remind me to keep things simple, to the point.
To me (and many others) the 2CV represents pure function over form. Nothing on the car is superfluous to its function as a capable load lugging, robust, ever-repairable and frugal vehicle. I have a soft spot for these cars. They encapsulate the phrase ‘less is more’.
Not every story from the workshop is rosy and my heart usually sinks when I receive something to fix that has tiny printed circuit boards fitted inside that do ‘something’ and nothing at the same time.
What the Tin Snail do I mean by that? Many appliances and machines manufactured in the last 20 years or so often contain ‘mini’ circuits that control ‘something’.
Take an electric kettle, something that most people have in their homes. Kettles generally are a water holding vessel, a heating system, and an on/off switch with a boiling water state detecting negative feedback loop (it switches off by itself when the water boils). There’s also some wire and stuff.
Electric kettles haven’t really changed that much over the years, after all the basic need hasn’t changed: You put water in, you switch it on, you get hot water to make a drink. Nothing has changed. However, many offered these days are fitted with things like filters, LED lighting and other electronic temperature control systems with bells on.
Trouble is, all these (kettle) gadgets tend to be controlled by a small circuit board which isn’t repairable or even replaceable. It only takes an accidental water spill, some static electricity or bump mishap and that tiny circuitry is toast. Not even a professional circuit repair agent, let along home spanner wielder would have a chance of repairing the broken circuit. When failure occurs, many will just discard the appliance and go and buy another one, quickly. Who wants to be without tea or coffee?!
The tragedy is that the rest of the (kettle in this case) appliance is, nine times out of ten, OK and if it was made with more traditional components that one could see with the naked eye, the appliance would stand far more chance of being repaired easily and economically. Something to think about, next time you’re considering a new purchase.
I particularly enjoy receiving something to fix that I’ve never come across before. Indeed, I’d never used an electric rice cooker, let alone heard of Tulip, the manufacturer of this example. To be frank, I haven’t often thought about the popularity of electric rice cookers in general as an additional labour-saving device in the kitchen. Clearly, I must be slipping.
This actual machine was a family treasure, which had moved around a bit and had originally been purchased in Holland and had since been converted from using a standard Euro plug to IEC/ kettle UK mains plug at some point. All very interesting you say (maybe), but how did it end up in my workshop?
Make and model: Tulip A350T Electric Rice Cooker
Fault reported: Not working
Cost of replacement: £30
Manufacturer support: 0/10
Cost of parts: £2.00
Hours spent on repair: 1 hour
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, test meter, heat shrink, looped crimps etc
Sundry items: Cleaning materials
Repair difficulty: 3/10
Cups of tea: 2
Biscuits: Custard Cream X 2
After many years of reliable service, poor old ‘Tulip’ decided it had had enough of boiling up pilau rice and assorted vegetables and conked out. When the owner tried to switch the cooker on, nothing happened, no light, no heat, no hope.
Most people would then usually have thrown in the towel, reached for their phone and within a couple of clicks, bought a new one on Amazon to be delivered the next day.
Perhaps it was the thought of poor old Tulip being crushed in the scrap metal pile at the tip which made the owner go online and find my website of strange domestic appliance tales instead of Amazon*… But I’m glad they did. *other online electrical retailers are available!
The machine is basically a large kettle with a removable bowl that holds whatever you wish to cook. It has a thermostat for temperature regulation, a switch to change modes (cook/warm) and a safety cut-out mechanism, should something go wrong. It was this safety system which had operated and caused the machine to fail-safe.
The design of the machine is quite simple, dare I say crude in places. Within a few minutes, I had removed the base, exposing the wiring, switch, thermostat and other gubbins.
The earth bonding cable had melted which was the first alarm bell to ring. Digging a little closer, the main issue revealed itself. The heat-proof insulation on the ‘over heat’ one-shot thermal fuse had shorted out via a cracked piece of wiring on the metal casing of the unit. Surprisingly, this had not overloaded the main plug fuse, but had heated the thermal fuse and had blown that instead. Flash-bang, kaput.
The cooker’s switch, thermostat, element and other wiring checked out OK, so it was now worth fixing the failed system.
After purchasing a suitable replacement thermal fuse for a couple of quid, I set about installing this in place of the failed one, taking the time to upgrade the wiring harness with heat shrink to avoid a short again in future. I removed the damaged earth and replaced it with fresh wire, securing it on to a better earth-bonded location and after some careful wire re-routing and fettling, the base of the machine was ready to be re-attached, ready for testing. With the cooking bowl full of water and power applied, the ‘cook’ light lit up and the machine started to work. Utter joy. After a few cycles of heating and warming, I was satisfied that my work was done.
Even though this device wasn’t marked as such, it’s a metal bodied Class One device here in the UK and ideally required a thorough integrety test of the safety system. Using my newly-acquired Megger PAT150 tester, I was able to prove that the machine was compliant with current UK legislation for Portable Appliance Testing. Ricely done.
Despite various warning labels and advice from manufacturers, sometimes it’s better to ignore official advice and just dive in, especially if something has stopped working altogether. Gaggia coffee machines of this vintage are well supported by various online parts suppliers, so when your machine stops making the perfect brew, the chances are that it can be sorted out with a little know-how…
I couldn’t resist a reference to one of my favourite childhood programs…
Make and model: Gaggia Milady Coffee Machine
Fault reported: No coffee/ blocked group head
Cost of replacement: £300 (approx.)
Manufacturer support: 3/10
Cost of parts: £0, inc. carriage
Hours spent on repair: 1 hour
Hours spent on finding parts: 0 hours
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, spanner, pliers, drill, tap set
Cups of tea: X 2 (and one coffee for testing purposes)
Biscuits: None (Ice Cream X 1)
Someone got in touch to see if I could repair their much loved Gaggia Milady, after receiving some unhelpful advice from the UK distributor. A new Gaggia had already been purchased, but the owner was missing the ‘solidness’ of his original machine and wanted it back working again.
Fault reported: Heater working, pump running, no water at all at the group head, therefore no coffee.
Opening the machine’s lid reveals lots of cables and pipes, so if you’re attempting this repair yourself, I recommend making notes and taking photos, carefully marking the location of all the positions.
I suspected a blockage from the boiler to the group head, as sometimes happens with older machines, as scale builds up on the inside. In cases like this, de-scaler is usually no good and more drastic action is required.
Removing the boiler on this model is similar to many other Gaggia machines, the only variant differences usually being cosmetic. Just four screws usually hold the boiler to the cabinet. I suspected that there was a blockage between the boiler area and valve to group head ‘jet’ and in order to access it, a few layers of metal work needed to be removed.
Just one screw holds the strainer, but removing the head involves removing two bolts, which secure two halves of the group head. The trouble is that over the years, corrosion makes the two halves ‘weld’ together and the only way to split them is to use a little ingenuity. Fortunately, there are four water holes in the head which make ideal leverage points and with a small M5 tap, those holes become anchor points for the two bolts holding the head together. Winding those bolts into the new threaded holes forces the two halves apart…
…Revealing the brass valve base. Using a 10mm spanner releases the valve’s spring and valve rubber. In this case, it was full of scale and debris. A thorough clean using WD40, wire brushes and wire wool and the group head was ready for reassembly.
All surfaces scrubbed, all rubber seals cleaned and treated to some water-safe lubricant, the group head back together, the boiler was ready to be re-installed into the machine. After some careful re-plumbing and re-connecting, the machine was ready for testing.
Just one more job. Make the coffee for Milady!
Another machine dodges the tip with only a small tin of elbow grease used. F.A.B!
Biscuits: X2 Chocolate Hobnobs (that don’t dunk that well in coffee, truth be told)
Recently, I got the opportunity to tackle an industrial vacuum cleaner in need of a proper service, which had been in continual use since the late 1960’s. Judging by the condition it was in when I first received it in the workshop, I doubt that some parts of the machine had received any care since its first day at work.
The machine in question is a Nilfisk GM80 (large). It’s a ‘large’ as it has a milk-churn sized base to it, which means it can swallow a lot of dust. The large base has long been discontinued, but you can still buy the current smaller base, should yours be damaged. Indeed, the Nilfisk GM80 range of vacuum cleaners are all quite modular and feature different levels of filtration, depending on the specific environment they are put to use in. This means you can easily swap parts from donor machines to keep older machines going. The design means that parts seldom go obsolete, new parts just get improved and fit older models. Great news for sustainability.
Back to the machine in question. It had been covered for many years under a service contract, but for whatever reason, that company were no longer taking quite as much time as they should and applying as much care with each inspection. This ‘serviced’ machine had recently had a new motor (hence later model motor housing) but the basics of vacuum principles had been overlooked.
I won’t go into the repair blow-by-blow, so here’s a summary of the work completed:
clean of all rubber seals and mating surfaces, essential to avoid air leaks
check and adjust all housing clips and adjust as necessary (all of them in this case)
wash motor diffuser (this had been changed within the last year)
wash main cotton filter (this had never been done, it was so clogged)
wash motor intake filter
check condition of motor brushes and bearing end-float (all fine)
check and tighten electrical IEC connection
inspect flex for damage (all OK)
The previous service agent had stated that the damaged hose (original 1960’s rubber item) was now unavailable and that a replacement was impossible. Impossible eh? That’s two letters too long.
Upon taking the old hose connectors apart (and removing layers of gaffer tape), I discovered that the internal diameter was similar to a Nilfisk-to-Numatic aftermarket adaptor and with a little adjustment, this 1960’s Nilfisk machine could be made compatible with Numatic’s vacuum cleaner hose design, which is much more abundant, here in the UK. So, with a little jiggery pokery, this machine is ready to work for its living, once again, with a shiny new hose.
So yet again, when an ‘expert’ tells you that something cannot be repaired, don’t necessarily take their word for it. A second opinion can sometimes save you time and money.
The repair didn’t break the bank either and I have since taken on more machine service work for this organisation.
A small mix up nearly resulted in some body modification…
Make and model: Hetty Vacuum Cleaner (HET200-22)
Fault reported: Not working
Cost of replacement: £100-£140
Manufacturer support: 10/10
Cost of parts: £21.59, inc. carriage
Hours spent on repair: 1 hour with service
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, test meter etc
Sundry items: Silicone spray, cleaning materials
Repair difficulty: 4/10
Cups of tea: 1
Biscuits: Ginger Nut X2
If only everything was as well made and built to last as a Henry (or Hetty!) hoover. Simple as a knife and fork, with tried and tested technology, it’s a machine created by an engineer, for everyone to own, use and repair themselves, when needed.
A neighbour got in touch to say that their broken Hetty was about to be scrapped and asked if I could do anything with it. Of course, I said. To be honest with you all, I’m not that confident with all repairs, but I knew that in the case of this one, I should be fine as Numatic products are pretty well supported by the manufacturer. And this is the thing:
How many purchases do we make that consider; “will I be able to get parts for that one day”?
We all do it, but as a tinkerer I try and consider the longevity and likely need for replacement components when I’m considering handing over my hard earned wedge, at point of purchase.
The Hetty had been working fine, but had then conked out, mid clean. No drama, no noise, no smoke, it had just stopped. The owner had already checked the fuse, but that was fine (as they often are).
When things just stop and won’t restart, that symptom is often trying to tell you something and if you’re listening, capturing the way something fails and acting on the information can save you time and often money. It’s a trick I’m always trying to perfect, although one can be caught out anytime- but that’s half the fun.
The machine stopped suddenly…
Maybe the cable broke?
Maybe the plug is damaged
Maybe a component failed quickly
Expensive things like motors tend to start making noises, run slower than usual or smell bad before failing. They can ‘just stop’ of course, but it’s likely that there will be a build-up, so I proceeded with some confidence that the motor was probably fine. I always check motor bearings and brushes anyway, when servicing this type of thing.
Since the mains cable and plug were fine, it was time to delve inside. The Hetty top is simply held together with a few screws (normal cross head) which then frees the cable winder and motor assembly, when undone.
I suspected the two-speed control PCB as these can fail suddenly without warning and since I have no Numatic PCB tester (if there is such a thing), all I could do is prove the component as faulty, beyond reasonable doubt. A quick check with my multi-meter revealed that there was no output, when connected to the mains. Suspicious.
It is also possible to by-pass the speed control PCB on these machines, which I did. I connected the motor up without it’s 600W/1200W control circuit in the loop and the motor spun up just fine.
Often, I like to go direct to the manufacturer (where possible) for spare parts as you often get the truth about an appliance as well as the latest version of a part. Often, manufacturers continue to iron out bugs and develop upgrades for spare parts as these will be fitted to the latest models. A company such as Numatic seem to apply those upgrades retrospectively to older models too, so that all customers new and old, can enjoy the benefits. For information; UK spec speed controller part 208436 (red) replaces part 206735 (orange) for model HET200-22.
FixItWorkshop, Worthing, May’20, Numatic PCB old and new (back)
FixItWorkshop, Worthing, May’20, Numatic PCB old and new (front)
As I couldn’t find the part I needed on any website, a quick call to Numatic UK, gave me the information I needed. Even during Covid-19 lockdown here in the UK, the lady in Numatic’s spares department, working from her kitchen, was able to advise me on the upgraded part I now needed and arrange for it to be with me for the next working day. If that’s not good service, I don’t know what is. http://www.numatic.co.uk
With the new part installed, the motor spun once more, at the correct two speeds. Happy days.
All fine then. Not quite.
Hetty had been supplied with a red base, not the original pink one that Hetty should have.
As we all know… no? Just me then, Henry is red and Hetty is pink and there is a range of names and colours to choose from in the range.
When I tried to fit the Hetty top to the supplied red base, it didn’t fit. Quite a head-scratching moment, if I’m being frank with you. Had it never fitted? Had the owner simply just put up with it the way it was? Had there been some kind of strange swapping incident that I wasn’t aware of? Time to get some answers!
It turns out that my neighbour have both Henry and Hetty models and had given me the wrong base. They had assumed they are all the same. They’re not actually, see below.
FixItWorkshop, Worthing, May’2020, Numatic Hetty & Henry backs
FixItWorkshop, Worthing, May’2020, Numatic Hetty lid without cut-out
The latest Henry and Hetty tops have a cut-out for the tool storage bracket moudling as shown on the red base above. The earlier Hetty I had in the workshop had no such bracket in the plastic. I did offer to modify the Hetty top I had with my Dremel saw, but this offer was declined!
With the right top and base paired up once more, I was happy, the neighbours were happy and another vacuum cleaner had been saved from being scrapped needlessly.